Knowing how to use hair clay starts with knowing whether clay is right for you at all. Choosing between men’s hair styling products comes down to hold and shine. Matte clay gives strong hold with little or no shine, suiting textured, piecey styles. Fibre gum gives medium, flexible hold with a natural sheen. Defining cream gives strong but restylable hold with soft definition.
In short
- Hold is how firmly a product keeps hair in place. Finish is how much it shines. They are separate choices.
- Clay is the most forgiving starting point for short, textured cuts and fine hair that needs body.
- Fibre gum suits thicker hair and styles that need movement and separation.
- Defining cream suits wavy and curly hair, or anyone who wants to restyle through the day.
- Use less than you think, warm it in your palms first, and work from the back of the head forwards.
What is the difference between hold and finish?
Every styler on the shelf is a mix of these two qualities, and most confusion about men’s hair products comes from treating them as one.
Hold describes how well a product keeps hair where you put it, and how it behaves as the day goes on. A light hold lets hair move and fall naturally. A strong hold keeps a shape up and out, even in wind and drizzle. A pliable or restylable hold stays slightly workable, so you can push hair back into place with your fingers at 4pm.
Finish describes how the hair looks once the product is in. Matte reads as dry, natural, almost product-free. Natural or low shine has a soft healthy sheen. High shine is glossy and polished, the classic slick-back look.
Pick your finish first. Most men know immediately whether they want their hair to look styled or look like it simply landed that way. Then choose the hold that your hair type needs to get there.
Hair clay vs wax vs pomade: what is each one?
A few quick definitions before the comparison.
- Hair clay is a styler thickened with natural clays, which absorb a little oil and add grip. The result is a dry, matte finish with plenty of texture and body.
- Hair wax is a styler built on waxes such as beeswax. It gives a medium hold with some shine and stays workable, which is why it is a long-standing barber staple.
- Pomade is a smoother, shinier styler. Oil-based pomades give a high-gloss, reworkable finish but can be hard to wash out. Water-based versions rinse out more easily.
- Fibre gum (sometimes called fibre paste) is a stretchy, elastic styler that pulls hair into strands, giving separation and movement with a natural sheen.
- Defining cream is a softer, creamier styler that shapes and defines hair, especially waves and curls, and can be restyled.
Hair clay vs wax
Clay holds harder and looks drier. Wax gives more shine and a slightly softer, smoother hold. If you want a textured crop that looks undone, choose clay. If you want a neat, side-parted look with a little polish, wax is the traditional route.
Hair clay vs pomade
These sit at opposite ends of the finish scale. Clay is matte and textured; pomade is glossy and sleek. Clay adds volume to fine hair. Pomade flattens and smooths, which is what you want for a slick back but not for a crop.
How do Hollo’s four stylers compare?
Here is how the Hollo range sits against each other, with generic wax and pomade for context. All four Hollo stylers come in 50ml and 100ml tins.
| Product | Hold | Finish | Texture | Best for | Scent |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Super Dry Clay | Extra-strong | Matte | Pliable | Thick hair, height, quiffs, all-day structure | Strawberry |
| Dry Matte Clay | Strong | Natural matte | Clay | Short textured crops, fine hair needing body | Lemon & melon |
| Fibre Gum | Medium | Natural shine | Elastic, fibrous | Separation and movement, messy styles | Bubblegum |
| Defining Cream | Strong | Defined, textured | Cream, restylable | Waves, curls, styles you rework through the day | Lavender & vanilla |
| Generic hair wax | Light to medium | Low to medium shine | Waxy | Neat, classic shapes | Varies |
| Generic pomade | Medium to strong | High shine | Smooth, greasy or gel-like | Slick backs, side partings | Varies |
Which hair product is right for your hair type and style?
Your hair type matters more than any label on the tin. Here is where to start.
Fine hair
Fine hair collapses under heavy, shiny products. You want something dry that adds grip without weight. A matte clay is the usual answer: it roughs up the hair slightly so it looks fuller. Dry Matte Clay is the one to try first. Avoid pomade, which will make fine hair look flat and thin. For extra lift, use a pre-styler such as sea salt spray before the clay.
Thick hair
Thick, heavy hair needs hold to keep its shape, or it simply drops by lunchtime. Go for the strongest hold you can find with a finish you like. Super Dry Clay gives extra-strong hold with a matte finish while staying pliable, so it will not set solid. Thick hair can also take fibre gum well if you want more movement and a little sheen.
Curly and wavy hair
Curls and waves look best when they are defined rather than flattened or dried out. A cream is easier to work through curls than a stiff clay, and it keeps the pattern looking like your own hair. Defining Cream gives strong hold with definition and texture, and you can restyle it later. Apply it to damp hair and scrunch, rather than combing it through.
Short textured crop
The modern crop is all about choppy, piecey texture on top. You want matte, strong hold and separation. Dry Matte Clay is the natural fit. Work a small amount through with your fingertips, then twist and pinch the ends into pieces.
Quiff
A quiff needs height at the front that does not sag. Blow-dry the front up and back first, then use a strong-hold matte product. Super Dry Clay is built for this kind of structure. If you prefer a softer, shinier quiff with more movement, try Fibre Gum instead.
Slick back
A slick back is traditionally pomade territory for the shine. If you want a modern, less glossy version, use Defining Cream on towel-dried hair and comb it back. It gives a cleaner, more natural look than a high-shine pomade, and it is easier to wash out.
How much product should you use?
Less than you think. Overloading is the most common mistake with any styler: hair looks greasy, clumps together and loses the texture you were after.
As general guidance:
- Short hair: a fingertip amount, roughly the size of a pea.
- Medium-length hair: a little more, around the size of a small fingernail.
- Thick or long hair: start with the same and add a second small amount if needed.
You can always add more. Taking product out means washing your hair and starting again.
How do you use hair clay?
These steps work for clay, and for fibre gum and cream with the small change noted in step 2.
- Start with clean hair. Product goes on better and lasts longer on hair that is not weighed down by yesterday’s styler.
- Dry or towel-dry, depending on the product. Clay and fibre gum work best on dry or almost-dry hair. Defining cream works best on towel-dried, damp hair.
- Scrape out a small amount with the back of a fingernail.
- Warm it between your palms until it is almost invisible. This is especially important with clay, which can be stiff straight from the tin.
- Apply from the back of the head forwards, so the front, where it is most visible, does not get the biggest dose.
- Work through to the roots with your fingers, then shape. Use fingertips for texture or a comb for a neater result.
- Finish with the ends. Twist or pinch small sections for separation on a crop or quiff.
Dry hair vs towel-dry hair
Matte products on wet hair tend to lose their grip and finish, so dry your hair first. If you blow-dry, the American Academy of Dermatology advises using a low or medium heat setting and limiting blow-drying. To get hair towel-dry without roughing it up, the AAD suggests wrapping it in a towel to absorb the water rather than rubbing.
Creams are the exception. They spread and define best on damp hair, and they set as the hair dries.
Using a pre-styler
If your hair is fine or flat, a pre-styler adds the foundation that clay alone cannot. Spritz Sea Salt Spray through towel-dried hair, blow-dry it in, then finish with a small amount of clay. Our guide on how to use sea salt spray covers this in more detail.
How do you wash out hair clay and wax?
Water-based products rinse out easily. Clays and waxes take a little more effort, because they are designed to stay put.
- Apply shampoo to dry or barely damp hair first, concentrating on the areas with the most product. This lets the shampoo grip the product before water dilutes it.
- Massage it in, then add water and lather.
- Rinse thoroughly, then shampoo a second time if your hair still feels coated.
- Follow with conditioner. The AAD recommends using conditioner after every wash, as it moisturises and detangles.
If you use strong-hold stylers every day, it is worth making the double shampoo a habit a couple of times a week so product does not build up.
Frequently asked questions
Is hair clay better than wax?
Neither is better, they do different jobs. Clay gives stronger hold and a matte, textured finish, which suits crops and fine hair. Wax gives a softer hold with more shine, which suits neater, classic styles.
Can you use hair clay on wet hair?
You can, but it works much better on dry or almost-dry hair. On wet hair, clay tends to lose grip and can look clumpy. Towel-dry or blow-dry first, then apply.
What is the best hair product for fine hair?
Look for a matte product with no heavy oils, such as a dry clay, and use a small amount. A pre-styler like sea salt spray can add extra volume underneath. Avoid high-shine pomades, which tend to flatten fine hair.
What does fibre gum do?
Fibre gum is an elastic, stretchy styler that pulls hair into defined strands. It gives medium hold with a natural shine, so it is good for messy, separated styles with movement rather than a rigid shape.
How often should you wash out hair product?
If you style every day, wash product out regularly so it does not build up and leave hair looking dull or heavy. How often depends on your hair and scalp, but a thorough double shampoo every few days is a sensible habit for strong-hold users.
Browse the full range of stylers, sprays and wash in our hair collection.
